Journal · September 28, 2026

Curb Appeal Tips: Design, Materials and All the Lil' Things

The front of a house is really four decisions: the door, the lighting, the small metal things you touch, and what grows in front of it. Three of those are inexpensive and can happen in a weekend. The fourth — roof, siding, windows — is the one worth getting right, and the only sensible time to think about it is when it is already being replaced.

That order matters, because curb appeal gets sold backwards. People are told to repaint the whole house when the actual problem is a builder-grade light fixture the size of a grapefruit and a door in a color nobody chose.

Front elevation of a white painted brick home with a steep slate-gray roof, dormers and clipped boxwood along a bluestone path, in a Mountainside, New Jersey renovation by Ellie Mroz Design.

Start with the door, and buy a real one

The door is the only part of the exterior a visitor touches, and a hollow one announces itself the moment a hand lands on it. A solid slab with proper stiles and rails changes how the whole facade reads, before any question of color comes up.

Then color. A front door is the one place on a house where a real decision costs nothing extra, so it should not be beige by accident. Sage, deep green, navy, oxblood, black — pick against the roof and the siding rather than against a fashion, because the roof is staying for twenty years and the fashion is not.

Arched sage green front door with louvered shutters, black gas lanterns, dark planters and a bluestone landing at a Mountainside, New Jersey home by Ellie Mroz Design.

Lighting is the fastest thing you can fix

Most houses are wearing fixtures two sizes too small. The rule we use: a lantern beside a front door should be roughly a quarter to a third the height of the door, and on a two-story elevation it will look absurdly large in the box and correct on the wall. Buy the bigger one.

Gas lanterns are the upgrade people notice without being able to name, and if running gas is not realistic, an electric lantern with a flickering filament gets most of the way there. Put them in pairs where the architecture is symmetrical, and put the whole lot on a photocell so the house is lit at dusk without anybody remembering.

Materials that age well, and ones that only look new

Everything outside is weathering from the day it goes up, so the honest question is not how a material looks new but how it looks in year eight. Painted brick, cedar, copper, bluestone and slate all improve. Vinyl shutters that could never close, plastic trim, and stamped concrete pretending to be stone never do.

Shutters deserve their own sentence, because they are the most commonly faked element on an American house. If they are there, they should be sized to actually cover the window and hung on visible hardware. Half-width shutters screwed flat to the siding read as decoration from the street, and everyone can tell.

Cedar shingle home with a slate roof, white trimmed dormers and a dark entry door behind a planted front porch in Westfield, New Jersey, by Ellie Mroz Design.

All the lil' things

This is where most of the difference lives, and where almost none of the budget goes. House numbers in a real typeface, mounted at a size you can read from a moving car. A mailbox that matches the hardware rather than the previous owner. A doorbell that is not a glowing plastic rectangle. A kick plate. Planters heavy enough not to blow over, in a material that survives a Jersey February.

Then the unglamorous half: where the hose lives, where the bins go, and what the utility meter is doing in the middle of the front elevation. Screening those is worth more than another shrub.

The garage doors are half your facade

On a lot of houses, particularly anything built after 1960, the garage doors are the largest single element facing the street and the least considered. Painting them to match the body of the house makes them recede. Giving them some structure — a carriage profile, hardware, a pergola or trellis above — makes them part of the architecture instead of a hole in it.

Sage green carriage-style garage doors under a cedar pergola with lanterns on either side, against white painted brick, at a Mountainside, New Jersey home by Ellie Mroz Design.

Planting is architecture, not decoration

A walk should be wide enough for two people to arrive together — four feet at least, five where there is room — because a path built for one person makes the front door feel like a service entrance. Layer the planting in threes: something low at the edge, something with structure behind it, something with height at the corners of the house.

And leave the foundation line visible. Shrubs swallowing the bottom three feet of a house is the most common way a good elevation gets hidden, and cutting them back is free.

Columned portico with a stained wood front door and sidelights on a white clapboard colonial with dormers and sage shutters in Summit, New Jersey, by Ellie Mroz Design.

What to do first

If the roof or the siding is due, start there and make every other decision against it — those are the twenty-year choices, and they set the palette. If they are fine, the order is door, lighting, hardware and numbers, then planting. That sequence delivers most of the visible change for a small fraction of the cost, and none of it is wasted if a bigger renovation follows.

See it done across a whole elevation in this Mountainside exterior renovation, or in Storybook Summit. More of our work in Mountainside, Summit and Westfield. When you are ready, start a project — bring the paint chips and the bad light fixture.

Questions

Questions we get a lot

What adds the most curb appeal for the least money?

The front door and the exterior lighting, in that order. Repainting a solid door costs a can of paint and changes the first thing anyone looks at, and replacing undersized fixtures with correctly scaled lanterns fixes a proportion problem most houses have. After those, house numbers, door hardware and a pair of substantial planters. All of it together usually costs less than one window and is visible from the street immediately.

How big should exterior light fixtures be?

Larger than feels right in the store. A lantern flanking a front door should be roughly a quarter to a third the height of the door, and one mounted on a two-story elevation or a garage wall can go larger still. Fixtures are almost always bought too small, because they are judged in a showroom at arm's length rather than on a wall seen from thirty feet away.

What exterior materials hold up best in New Jersey?

The ones that weather rather than degrade: painted brick, cedar, copper, bluestone and slate all look better in year eight than year one. Four real seasons, road salt and freeze-thaw are hard on anything imitating a material it is not, which is why plastic trim, stamped concrete and vinyl shutters tend to announce their age quickly. Spend where the material is doing structural work and is expensive to revisit.

Should I paint my garage doors?

Usually yes. On many houses the garage doors are the largest single element facing the street, and painting them the body color rather than a contrasting white makes them recede into the elevation. If the budget allows more, adding a carriage-style profile, real hardware, or a pergola or trellis above turns them into part of the architecture rather than an opening in it.

How wide should a front walkway be?

Four feet at a minimum and five where there is room, so two people can walk up to the door side by side. A narrower path makes the front entrance feel like a service door, however good the door itself is. Material matters too: bluestone, brick or a large-format stone reads as architecture, while a narrow poured strip reads as access. Curve it only if the site gives a reason.